On surfing…

We’ve been getting a run of swell the last few weeks here in Florida and I busted a leash and needed some wax so when a downtime at work came up I ran down to my local surf shop. 

A surf shop is similar to any other retail business but its also a place to hang out, talk story and brag or lament with your fellow brothers and sisters about that sick wave you got or how you blew it waiting for the tide to drop only to have the wind switch direction and ruin the waves. In all accounts, my trip to the surf shop could/should have been less than 5 minutes to pick up what I needed but when my wife texted 45 minutes later I realized I should probably get back to work.

Besides talking about the previous swell, what we were riding, checking out new boards, and gushing over some sweet vintage boards in the used rack older gentlemen walked into the shop with a hoodie sweatshirt and his wetsuit on underneath, he was stopping in to say hello, get the stoke going and head out across the street for a surf. After a few minutes of random surf talk, he tells me that he’s 67 years old and that he used to surf when he was a kid but life and a job that moved him around a lot had ended his surfing 30+ years ago. He went on to mention that he had some recent health issues and after a few doctor’s visits he needed to make some changes but didn’t know where to start. A chiropractor friend during a visit for an adjustment said to him next Saturday I want you to meet me at the beach instead of an office visit, We’re going surfing. And to make a long story short he’s since lost 40lbs by surfing and a diet change, stopped having to take several prescription medicines, and is feeling better than he has in years and his second love affair with surfing is in full effect.

All I’ve ever wanted to be when I grew up was a surfer, one of the local boys that could walk from his house to the beach instead of drive. The older guy that still surfs shortboards and is in the water for the best swells with the kids half his age. And inevitably the old retired guy whos out there still living the dream and never misses a swell. Those guys are my hero’s and I’m lucky enough to have a few of them as role models and surfing buddies. Those guys are in great shape mentally and physically because their passion for the waves gave them a “why” to stay that way also in their hearts they never really grew up to be adults.

Sometimes we stay the path and live out our passions for our entire life and sometimes life’s plans send us on a 30-year detour before we can get that second go around. It’s not worth getting upset over the lost time and having to start over again or even worse thinking it’s too late in our lives to make a change. Like the guy at the shop in the hoodie told me this journey all started because I agreed to paddle out and give it a shot, all I wanted to do was stand up and now months later I’m here and having the time of my life and feeling great

What’s your why???

I want to open by saying I’ve written this blog post about 8 times already and I’ve thought it was good and then I would read it and think I hadn’t hit really hit the mark. I feel like this version might be the one that see’s the light of day.

Four years ago on a Monday I took the trash out and had a conversation with a neighbor that made me think about the choices I was making in life. It started me on my path to where I am today. Those early days had some bumps, detours and full on sabbaticals as my “why” was motivating but was a bit superficial and self serving. I don’t want to discount this why to much as it still drives me today but about a year into being a Dad the “Why” Epiphany hit me really hard again. It came in the form of 5 simple words formed into a question by Travis Manion –http://www.travismanion.org

“If not me then who?

Those words got me thinking more about the way I was living and what would happen 20 to 30 years down the road if I stayed on the current path I was traveling. Who would take care of my my wife and children if I let my health go by the wayside and I passed away relatively young? Who’s going to go surfing my with my son and daughter when they are teenagers? Who will teach my children how to cook, look someone in the eye and grow up to be fine contributing members of society?

I knew the answer to those questions and it was me! And that’s when I found my “why” that has kept me going every day since I asked myself those questions.

After several thousands of hours of podcasts, audible and long runs I have reached something that I think is of value to this world.

“One of the best ways to to take care of the people who rely on you is to first take care of yourself.” Its a little wordy but I think the message is solid.

To elaborate I’m not telling you to become a self serving jerk who ignores their family in the search for a banging six pack at the gym. I’m asking you to squeeze in 15 minutes a day of exercise, eat more vegetables and less processed food and perhaps more importantly go see your doctor for an annual check up.

What’s your why

My why and your why to take control of our health may be completely different and that’s to be expected. My why isn’t better then yours, just like yours isn’t better then mine. what is important is that we find the thing or things that will keep us on the path to who we want to be when we grow up.

Which leads me to my question for you today. Who/what do you want to be doing 10,15, 20 and so on years down the road? I would be willing to bet those ideas are filled with hobbies, good health and time spent with the ones you love. Now ask yourself this question are the choices I am making today moving me closer or further away from that dream.

I hope that you answered that question with a resounding yes but if you didn’t that’s quite alright. It wasn’t that long ago that my answer was the opposite of what it is today. And if you remember back to the WHEN blog post from this series, the second best time to do something is right now.

There are so very few things that we have any control over in life and I feel like that’s more evident know then ever in the time of covid. The choices that you make today, tomorrow and the next day will have a collective impact on your life down the road. Having a why that is bigger then your self will serve you far better then trying to rely on fleeting hopes of motivation.

If your curious about who I want to be when I grow up send me a message and I will elaborate. https://www.instagram.com/brian_in_search/