We’ve been getting a run of swell the last few weeks here in Florida and I busted a leash and needed some wax so when a downtime at work came up I ran down to my local surf shop.
A surf shop is similar to any other retail business but its also a place to hang out, talk story and brag or lament with your fellow brothers and sisters about that sick wave you got or how you blew it waiting for the tide to drop only to have the wind switch direction and ruin the waves. In all accounts, my trip to the surf shop could/should have been less than 5 minutes to pick up what I needed but when my wife texted 45 minutes later I realized I should probably get back to work.
Besides talking about the previous swell, what we were riding, checking out new boards, and gushing over some sweet vintage boards in the used rack older gentlemen walked into the shop with a hoodie sweatshirt and his wetsuit on underneath, he was stopping in to say hello, get the stoke going and head out across the street for a surf. After a few minutes of random surf talk, he tells me that he’s 67 years old and that he used to surf when he was a kid but life and a job that moved him around a lot had ended his surfing 30+ years ago. He went on to mention that he had some recent health issues and after a few doctor’s visits he needed to make some changes but didn’t know where to start. A chiropractor friend during a visit for an adjustment said to him next Saturday I want you to meet me at the beach instead of an office visit, We’re going surfing. And to make a long story short he’s since lost 40lbs by surfing and a diet change, stopped having to take several prescription medicines, and is feeling better than he has in years and his second love affair with surfing is in full effect.
All I’ve ever wanted to be when I grew up was a surfer, one of the local boys that could walk from his house to the beach instead of drive. The older guy that still surfs shortboards and is in the water for the best swells with the kids half his age. And inevitably the old retired guy whos out there still living the dream and never misses a swell. Those guys are my hero’s and I’m lucky enough to have a few of them as role models and surfing buddies. Those guys are in great shape mentally and physically because their passion for the waves gave them a “why” to stay that way also in their hearts they never really grew up to be adults.
Sometimes we stay the path and live out our passions for our entire life and sometimes life’s plans send us on a 30-year detour before we can get that second go around. It’s not worth getting upset over the lost time and having to start over again or even worse thinking it’s too late in our lives to make a change. Like the guy at the shop in the hoodie told me this journey all started because I agreed to paddle out and give it a shot, all I wanted to do was stand up and now months later I’m here and having the time of my life and feeling great
Subjects to change 